Before we even set foot in Albania, we realized it’s a country that we knew very little about. For much of the 20th century, Albania was one of the most isolated countries in the world. After World War II, communist leader Enver Hoxha ruled the country for more than 40 years, cutting Albania off from much of the outside world. During that time, over 170,000 concrete bunkers were built across the country in preparation for invasions that never came. When communism collapsed in the early 1990s, Albania rapidly opened its doors and began transforming into the vibrant, curious, and welcoming country that we landed in.
The capital, Tirana, is at the heart of that transformation—colorful buildings, lively cafes, creative energy, and a young population eager to connect with the world. And we hit the ground running. Actually… we hit the ground at 3:00 a.m.
After a late-night arrival, we stumbled into our first Airbnb in a slightly delirious state of exhaustion. In daylight, however, the apartment revealed some quirks we hadn’t quite noticed in the middle of the night. The most memorable feature was a clear panel wall separating one of the bedrooms from the rest of the apartment. Privacy was… optional. Add in a lingering smoky smell and a few other oddities, and it quickly became clear this place wasn’t going to work for our family. So, instead of sightseeing on our first full day in Tirana, we embarked on a different adventure—apartment hunting. Fortunately, it turned out to be a good decision. By the end of the day, we found a fantastic new place—a modern three-bedroom apartment with a comfortable couch, strong Wi-Fi, a functional kitchen, and a dryer! After traveling for a while, those things can feel like a luxury.
Once we got settled, life quickly fell into a rhythm. The kids wasted no time jumping into activities around the city. They’ve already started art classes twice a week, where they’re working on painting and all kinds of creative projects. It’s been a great way for them to get their hands messy in the best possible way. Henry has taken things in a slightly more vertical direction—rock climbing twice a week, which he absolutely loves. Lucas went once and decided it wasn’t for him. Lucas and Michael did find ping pong and tennis. They are taking ping-pong lessons from a ping-pong pro. Michael, Lucas, and Henry are now going three days a week to lift weights with a seven-time Albanian bodybuilding champion. It’s not exactly your typical travel activity, but it’s been an incredible experience for the boys. There’s something pretty motivating about being coached by someone who has spent years at the top of their sport. We have also been meeting other fellow travelers.
Outside of scheduled activities, we’ve been exploring Tirana the best way we know how: on foot. Most days, we easily hit 10,000 steps, weaving through the busy streets, parks, and neighborhoods. The city is incredibly walkable, and there’s always something new around the corner. One thing we noticed immediately is how dense and lively the city feels. There are restaurants, bakeries, produce stands, and small grocery stores on nearly every corner. It’s easy to pop out for fresh vegetables, bread, or a quick coffee. We have found a variety of food — Greek, Chinese, Sushi, Mexican, and more.
And the weather? Absolutely perfect. We’ve been treated to sunny skies and temperatures in the 70s, which makes wandering the city even more enjoyable. Cafés spill out onto sidewalks, parks are full of people, and the whole city seems to be soaking up the sunshine.
After just one week, Tirana already feels lively, welcoming, and full of surprises. Between art classes, climbing walls, weightlifting sessions, and miles of walking through the city, we’ve settled into a rhythm that feels less like visiting and more like living. Not bad for a stay that started at 3 a.m. and a smoky apartment.
