We only had a short time in Seoul, but we kept busy exploring bustling markets and historical sites and immersing ourselves in the local culture (including pickleball).
Our first view of Seoul when we exited the subway was the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a UFO-looking architectural marvel that houses a variety of exhibitions, shops, and cafes. The futuristic design of the plaza is a stark contrast to the traditional palaces and temples we visited.
Our accommodation in Seoul was basic but surprisingly comfortable. We stayed at Joy Guesthouse. The first half of our trip was spent in one room with two sets of bunk beds (think college dorm). We got a second room for the last few days of our stay. There is a small communal kitchen and a washing machine. The host is responsive and provides nice touches like snacks and coffee. The location is great, near shops and restaurants with easy access to the subway. 
One of the highlights of our trip was visiting the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). The impact of the division between North and South Korea did not sink in until we visited the DMZ. As we stood at the Dora Observatory, looking out into North Korea, the reality of the separation of families and nations became palpable. Daria, our guide, shared harrowing stories of human rights violations, but also stories of hope and reconciliation.
The history of Southeast Asia is tumultuous and heavy for an 11 and 13-year-old, but we are glad Lucas and Henry are learning about it firsthand. From the Vietnam War to the genocide in Cambodia and now the history of Korea, they are learning a lot.
Lucas loves baseball, so we were excited to attend a baseball game, immersing ourselves in one of Korea’s favorite pastimes. The energy in the stadium was electric, with fans passionately cheering for their teams. The home team (Doosan Bears) fans were singing and dancing each time their team was at bat. Food and drinks are not expensive and can be purchased inside or brought in from outside the stadium.
Our exploration of Seoul would not have been complete without a visit to Gyeongbokgung Palace, a stunning example of traditional Korean architecture. Lucas and Henry had a good attitude even though they suffered from palace and temple fatigue. We also got to witness the changing of the guard ceremony at Deoksugung Palace, a colorful and ceremonial tradition that dates back centuries.
Beyond the attractions, what truly made our trip memorable was the warmth and hospitality of the Korean people. Everywhere, we were greeted with smiles and kindness, making us feel welcome and at home. A pickleball acquaintance Michael met through a friend in Taiwan showed us around for the day. He took us to a Vegan restaurant for lunch and pizza for dinner, and of course, he took us to play pickleball.
We also met an American family that lives in Seoul. They took us to try Dakgalbi, a popular stir-fried chicken dish. Lucas and Henry enjoyed the Korean hot dogs. The food in Korea is delicious. Lots of chicken. Some reminders of America (deep dish pizza, McDonald’s (Henry says Seoul has the best big mac because it was hot), Subway and Dunkin). I found good vegan options as well. The family also invited us to a high school production of “You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown,” and we bonded over the game Dungeon Mayhem, which both families enjoy playing.
Seoul has a good vibe. We would come back to visit and explore other parts of South Korea.
